Wallpaper* jewellery editor’s prime 10 jewellery 2021 stories

Yr in review: watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver picks her 10 leading jewellery posts from 2021

Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver appears back and reveals her best 10 jewelry tales from 2021, from significant jewelry style to alternate engagement rings and male-built diamonds

Discover the best 10 jewelry posts for 2021, as picked by Wallpaper* watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver. From the functions of emerging designers to high jewellery showstoppers, below are some of the year’s very best jewelry tales (in no specific get).

Leading 10 jewellery tales of the calendar year

01. Person-made diamonds defined

As man-built diamonds grow to be a well-known choice for alternative engagement rings, so the curiosity about them grows, with numerous unclear about what sets them aside from normal diamonds. There is no technological, physical, chemical or optical variance between a lab-developed diamond and a genuine diamond – the one difference is how they arrived into remaining.

02. Cartier pays homage to its most legendary patterns

‘Our items are marked by a purity of line, a precision of sort and cherished particulars,’ suggests Arnaud Carrez, head of global internet marketing and communications, Cartier International, on the new campaign devoted to the maison’s legendary models. ‘We needed to rejoice them all collectively and display what they have in frequent.’ Cartier is shining the spotlight on vintage collections from the final century, with the Santos, Tank, Trinity, Adore, Juste Un Clou, Panthère and Ballon Bleu all celebrated as a lesson in lasting design and style.

03. Hidden diamonds make for personal engagement rings

Different engagement rings are reduced down to essential silhouettes by Jenny Sweetnam, who has gone back again to principles with her new selection, Inverse. The 2018 Wallpaper* Structure Award winner has established herself as a contemporary jewelry designer who provides a freshness to regular parts, as a result of a very simple and progressive solution. The new collection builds on these foundations with sculptural layouts in 18ct yellow gold that make discreet, personal engagement tokens or even men’s engagement rings. 

04. Standard gold jewellery rethought by Laud

Awah, creative director of Laud, brings an offbeat sensibility to jewellery design. Established 3 years ago, the emerging jewellery brand intertwines a assortment of influences for parts that perform with geometry and rethink conventional motifs. The new collections, obtainable at Dover Street Sector and Browns, rethink symbolic motifs in yellow and white gold items impressed by both African artwork and Awah’s Ghanian heritage. The eternity ring and the signet ring, reconsidered by means of Awah’s lens, nod to the intricacies of stained glass, its patterns interpreted in irregularly placed speckles of diamonds.

05. Melanie Georgacopoulos’ new jewellery casts pearls and diamonds in a refreshing light-weight

Following celebrating the 10-calendar year anniversary of her eponymous manufacturer in 2020, Melanie Georgacopoulos was keen to mark the milestone with a alter of path. Her new jewellery assortment, titled Carats, is the initial time she has labored with both equally natural pearls and diamonds. In a enjoy on texture, Georgacopoulos unites the two components, the really hard diamonds showing up to sink into their gentle cushions of mother-of-pearl. The result is of spontaneity the diamonds, seemingly just pressed in, stick to the legal guidelines of gravity and power the jeweller to relinquish management. ‘The loss of control was a experience I have experienced since Covid-19 started out, and it was essential for me to find a way to showcase it in my jewellery,’ Georgacopoulos claims.

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06. Schiaparelli’s 2021 superior jewelry selection launches at Paris Couture Week

Artistic director Daniel Roseberry provides unadulterated joy to his third selection for Schiaparelli, for a mischievous acquire on the typically major enterprise of couture. His assortment pays tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s experimental spirit and her Surrealist tactic, which arrived to everyday living by collaborations with Dali, Cocteau and Man Ray. Her influence is obvious in the facts: ‘One point that a couture atelier can uniquely do is gildings, and these pieces are dazzling examples of the artwork of embroidery and beading,’ says Roseberry. ‘I’ve generally admired how Elsa embroidered pieces – in an period in which embroidery had a whispery, almost recessive high quality, hers were barbaric and unapologetic.’

07. Chaumet’s golden choose on the cityscape

Chaumet marked its 240th anniversary in 2021 with a new collection that draws on a host of defining cultural references from the high jewellery house’s historical past. The ‘Perspectives de Chaumet Skyline’ necklace can take fashionable cityscapes as its inspiration, rewriting their clash of geometry in warm yellow gold that has been polished, openworked, engraved and hammered. ‘The work of gold on this piece is a tribute to the 1960s and 1970s, from the time of Pierre Sterlé and René Morin,’ claims Chaumet CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt. A serrated silhouette offers an illusion of chaos, a nod to deconstructivism Mansvelt factors to Irving Penn’s Collapse and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater as immediate inspirations.

08. The sensual jewellery design of Hugo Kreit

‘My jewellery is pleasurable and glamorous, but there’s also something disturbing when you arrive into contact with the parts,’ states French jeweller Hugo Kreit. ‘The styles are in movement, the textures and finishes are dripping. I like to shock, I seem for the attractiveness in the subversive and the strange.’ Educated in industrial style, Kreit labored in the fashion show manufacturing sector for Hermès, Dior, Jacquemus and other people in advance of turning to jewellery structure: ‘Both encounters confirmed me the remarkable power of style reveals, the art of style storytelling as a result of collective performances, picture crafting and dream earning,’ he suggests.

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09. 10 jewelry designers rethink the typical engagement ring for De Beers

De Beers has partnered with ten jewellery designers for the launch of ‘Ten/Ten’, a constrained-edition assortment of 100 alternative engagement rings. Each and every jeweller designed one accessibly priced design and style, reinterpreting the classic codes of an engagement ring and centring their types round ethically-sourced diamonds from Botswana. ‘The inspiration for Ten/10 was truly driven by a mixture of matters,’ suggests Stephen Lussier, De Beers govt vice president of customer marketplaces. ‘We wished to support the individuals of Botswana whose financial state is dependent on diamond revenues, to allow for more individuals to learn the remarkable creative imagination of 10 impartial designers and to present a little something really exclusive to partners hoping to get engaged this yr.’

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10. NFT jewellery: is blockchain bling a issue?

Jewelry designer Simone Faurschou unveiled her new great jewelry as a digital selection of NFT items ahead of the bodily launch. The collection, Blockchain, composed of reliable white and yellow gold blocks with man-made diamonds, explores the methods we connect with technological know-how – and how technological innovation connects with us. After a calendar year in which technology has both connected and isolated us, it is a timely examination.